The Table

Sag Harbor

Lunch That Quietly Becomes Dinner

The finest East End lunch is measured by how completely the afternoon loses its schedule. One bottle becomes two, the harbor changes color, someone ca...

The Dinner Party Became the Restaurant

Home dining reached a new level in 2022 as Long Island hosts borrowed the best habits of restaurants—timing, lighting, confident menus—without importi...

Tomato Season Ruled the Menu

For a few perfect weeks in 2022, Long Island’s tomatoes made culinary ambition look unnecessary. Sliced thick, dressed simply and served with bread, c...

The Corner Table Became the Only Table

In 2022, Long Island diners became newly strategic about where they sat. The corner table offered privacy without isolation, a view of the room withou...

Oysters, Martinis and the New Restraint

The sharpest tables of 2022 favored fewer things done properly: cold oysters, exact martinis, excellent bread and service that understood silence. Lon...

The Long Lunch Came Back

The defining meal of 2022 was lunch with no responsible ending. It began with oysters or tomatoes, moved through a second bottle and quietly absorbed...